Ever since I first tied into a rope I've wanted to climb Blitzen Ridge. This is where most people stop. Midway across the ledge system rope drag began to become and issue for Dan so he set up a belay and brought Brian up with Fabio close on his heals. However, with careful route finding, there … When the sprinkles began Brian and Dan got tired of waiting for us and headed down to Donner Ridge. I set up a quick belay and brought Fabio over. I gained the ridge just west of the summit of the second ace. I made my way down it trying to remember to place a bit of pro below the tricky section. In its alpine setting, this route challenges the soloist to make a fast ascent to the summit, or a roped party to move quickly and efficently to avoid the summer storms. The Official Whitepages. The third ace is best climbed directly up a corner that's slightly right of center, then cut left to reach the top of the ace (YDS 5.3). Blitzen Ridge, Ypsilon Mountain . Many years ago (about Sept 1958) Phil Ritterbush, Clint Brooks, Jim Walker, Dave Fedson and I (students at Yale at the time) did the first ascent of the Blitzen Ridge. With dinner eaten and all our water filtered for the climb we hiked back up to our bivy site, made a few last minute organizational adjustments, and went to sleep. I came down Donner Ridge, and when I got to the big, seemingly impassable cliff/notch in the ridge at ~12,300', I dropped down a loose-ish gully SOUTH off the ridge, stayed high on descender's left out of the underbrush in the basin and at treeline eventually picked up a very faint use path, crossed the stream to the right on a giant log, and soon ran right into a very obvious social trail that quickly led me right back down to Ypsilon Lake. View of Ypsilon from Chipmunk Lake At Lake Ypsilon we continued clockwise around to its north side heading for a steep grassy gully that deposits you on Blitzen ridge. We left the Lawn Lake Trailhead at 4:30 and once again made quick work on the approach to Ypsilon Lake. Start from the Lawn Lake Trailhead, where Fall River Road splits from Highway 34 in Rocky Mountain National Park. Rocky Mountain National Park - Ypsilon Mountain (Blitzen Ridge) Posted by dsneider1 at 10:10 AM No comments: Email This BlogThis! Oh well - it was fun anyway. There was no social trail and no cairns. Once through the two pitches or so of the headwall we would be beyond all the technical climbing and into 3rd class terrain. Dan raced ahead and grabbed Fabio's stuff and filtered some water for of us. We had planned to simul-climb, but once on the summit of the first ace Fabio decided to just bring me up because simul-climbing over the top and down the other side would have caused too much rope drag. Powell/Taylor – Ice, Rock, and snow. In the fall of 2006 I lined up a bunch of partners, got our bivy permits squared away, but the weather did not cooperate. I'm not exactly sure what the attraction was - probably the spectacular setting as one of the dramatic arms encircling the gorgeous Spectacle Lakes Cirque and the large size of the route. Here's Anton Krupicka's Mountain Project report from a run (probably FKT) in August 2015: "Really nice ridge scramble. We all took the opportunity to have a little rest, a big snack, and joke around. As he made his way up the pitch Brian joined me at the belay and began bringing Dan up. We still hadn't seen or heard a hint of lightning or thunder but it looked like the rain could start at any minute. We set a leisurely pace and arrived at the Lake around 18:00. Ypsilon and Spectacle Lakes Ypsilon Mountain is one of the better peaks in the Mummy Range in northern Rocky Mountain National Park. Thus Brian and Dan quickly pulled ahead. We met up with Brian and Dan on Donner Ridge and began the descent down into the basin between Donner Ridge and Mount Chiquita. From there climb the trail towards Lawn Lake and after a little more than 1.25 miles, turn left for the Ypsilon Lake turnoff. We coiled the rope and trotted after Brian and Dan. They were to bivouac on the route on the night of July 20, which they did. It took us a while to find a reasonable bivy spot but we finally found a few relatively flat spots in the middle of a boulder fields about 300' feet above Ypsilon Lake. A couple beta points: at Ypsilon Lake, I went around its west end, bushwhacked on a very faint trail parallel to the lakeshore for maybe 5min, and then went left/NW/uphill in the steep, somewhat narrow grassy gully. At about 12,000' you'll run into the four Aces. Mountain Project link here. The route has 4 distinct rock features known as the 4 Aces which, along with a headwall after them, rise hundreds of feet into the air and comprise the crux of the climb with the difficulty ranging from 5.4-5.6. After climbing the Spiral Route on Notchtop Mountain the previous day, Jeff and I decided to tackle Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain. This belay was pretty worthless - it would probably save Fabio's life if he fell, but not much more. A photo essay from an alpine rock climb of Blitzen Ridge on Mount Ypsilon, 4,119m, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado September 2014 It had been over two years since I'd last climbed. I shot this video of an ascent of Ypsilon Mountain's Blitzen Ridge. Go left (clockwise) around the lake until you meet up with an easy-looking chute directly north of the lake. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. Ypsilon. I found a nice ledge system along the south side of the second ace and followed it along looking for a way to the top. Whitepages is the authority in people search, established in 1997. This can be a casual dayhike if not in a rush. The rest of us straggled into Ypsilon Lake and then dragged ourselves back up to the hill to grab our stuff. The ledge system I was on was just too comfortable to leave. Looking down the grassy gully Once on the ridge, you still have a bit of easy hiking before you get to the start of the 4 Aces which mark the start of the technical climbing. After a while the ridge did begin to flatten out. After our snack Fabio and I swapped gear once more and he set off around the fourth and final ace. Our 70m rope just barely got me to the notch were I found a rappel anchor where somebody had obviously decided to bail. From the notch between the fourth ace and the headwall there was a walkoff down to Spectacle Lakes. Next up was the ascent of this slope on the north side of the lake. My pack weighed 43 pounds on this trip up the Blitzen Ridge. I was totally wrecked, but incredible satisfied with another great day in the hills. Ypsilon Mountain is a 13er in the Mummy Range of Northern Colorado. As the sun began to rise we geared up for the technical climbing. Labels: Colorado, National Parks, Rock Climbing, summit, United States. For the last Ace, climb slabs on the right (north) side (YDS 5.4) until you reach easy ledges that wrap left towards a white boulder, from there cross to the left (south) side of the ridge and climb either a corner or chossy ledges to the top of the ace (YDS 5.2). I radioed ahead to Brian that we would follow them if they continued up the ridge. It's hard to imagine what an adventure the onsite FA must have been! For those who aren't familiar with the route it is a strenous ridge climb found on Mt. Fabio followed right behind. Ypsilon (Blitzen Ridge) Chiquita, Chapin - Northern Rockies - Trip report with pictures by Seano Enrico Bonino and Jon Bracey climb a new route on the Grandes Jorasses on Mont Blanc - Planet Mt 10 Gravity defying mountains even experienced mountaineers avoid - Fabio and I packed away our gear and had a snack while we looked warily at the building clouds. Blitzen Ridge is one of the finest ridges that can be climbed in Rocky Mountain National Park. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. We hadn't heard or seen any indication of thunder or lightning and I had my rain gear. Approach was fairly casual, and we had no trouble finding the start of the ridge. Towards the top the face became completely vertical, if not overhanging. The description on Mountain Project even describes it as the best ridge climb in the park. Share to Twitter Share to Facebook Share to Pinterest. There might have been a few low 5th class moves on that first pitch but mostly it was 4th class. Need to be heads-up, but this felt like a very logical, efficient descent.". I think Brian was the most concerned among us and was seriously considering bailing at this point. Start from the Lawn Lake Trailhead, where Fall River Road splits from Highway 34 in Rocky Mountain National Park. I made it car-to-car in 3h52---or, rather, bike-to-bike, I suppose, as I approached via bike from Boulder. After packing up and reorganizing our kit we resumed the death march back to the car and arrived at the Lawn Lake Trailhead at 19:30. A few hours after I had gotten back from Lawn Lake TH (after completing the Mummy Kill line with the Boulder Trail Runners group), Peter picked me up to get whisked back to this very same trailhead! It ended too soon though and soon I was swapping gear with Fabio. Those were certainly the stoutest moves I've pulled on lead in a while - probably in the 5.7 range. On the way we had to make the detour to retrieve our stuff from the bivy site. We were slow, got to the summit just before dark. For the first two, traverse ledges to left (south) side of the ridge proper. From here, there are either anchors to rappel or it's a quick (YDS 5.0) downclimb to reach the col before the fourth and final ace. After much 3rd class scrambling Fabio and I reached the summit of Ypsilon Mountain at about 13:20 - nearly an hour after Brian and Dan. Two days previously, we'd been repulsed by… The sprinkles were persisting so we didn't waste any time on the summit and kept heading down. Share to Twitter Share to Facebook Share to Pinterest. Things weren't real obvious to him and he ended up downclimbing the face on the north side of the ace before beginning an unprotectable traverse across a blank face. They said they'd wait there for us unless the weather got really bad. This resulted in our ill-fated attempt at Gash Ridge. Thus I had to wait a whole other year to make my attempt. Dan was by far the strongest rock climber among us so we encouraged him to try to attack the arte directly. Rocky Mountain National Park - Ypsilon Mountain (Blitzen Ridge) Posted by dsneider1 at 10:10 AM No comments: Email This BlogThis! Cresting this ridge will land you in the Fay Lakes basin, and following the top of the ridge west will take you to Blitzen Ridge, and one of the technical ways to ascend Ypsilon Mountain. Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm. P.S. I had absolutely no problem with this because it was my turn to "lead" it. The pair had departed from the Lawn Lakes trailhead at 3:15 a.m. on the morning of March 16 with the intent of climbing Ypsilon via the Blitzen Ridge route and descending Donner Ridge to the south. On October 31, 2007 I received the following note from Charles Ehlert (currently of Seattle, WA): Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. Depending on the strategy you choose, the day involves at least 10 miles of hiking and climbing, with at least seven thousand feet of cumulative elevation gain/loss. From the lake, we headed east then north on a climbers trail to the secluded Spectacle Lakes. Continue they did. Location: Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517, USA. This classic mountaineering route up Ypsilon Mountain is one of the most prized ridge climbs in Colorado. We decided to go up the eastern side of the Blitzen Ridge, climbing up from the northeast side of Ypsilon Lake. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. We were hiking toward Ypsilon Lake by about 15:00. After our snack we headed up after Brian and Dan. This was pretty much our last opportunity - above the headwall we were pretty much committed to going up and over Ypsilon Mountain and down Donner Ridge. Fabio and I made a team, Brian and Dan made the other. With comprehensive contact information, including cell phone numbers, for over 275 million people nationwide, and Whitepages SmartCheck, the fast, comprehensive background check compiled from criminal and other records from all 50 states.Landlords use Whitepages TenantCheck, which is … It's fun to read of others' adventures up there, remembering that great day all those years ago... Our ascent was informed by at least three guidebooks, a couple of websites, a handful of trip reports from friends and acquaintances, and I'd been up Donner Ridge before and had our descent doped out. Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. After setting up our bivy we hiked back down to the lake to filter water and cook some dinner. That was a small price to pay for a successful ascent of the route. Ypsilon. This classic mountaineering route up Ypsilon Mountain is one of the most prized ridge climbs in Colorado. http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/90/Ypsilon_Mountain_Blitzen_Ridge.htm, Participants: Fabio Somenzi, Brian Kraus, Dan Dalton. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. Because the rappel wasn't anywhere near vertical, and we really needed to do a descending traverse to get to the notch, we decided to downclimb it. 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