And fyi, people seem to be so unaware of this, but depending on your climate zone you may be required by code to also install a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall, so check with your local code. (Due to me going to county, getting another permit card..the old card mysteriously disappear, per said contractor) First we install two inches of rigid foam board insulation (closed cell). I'll cover it with 1/2" drywall and framing pushed right up against the XPS. I don't want problems in the future. Basement Foam Board Insulation. To learn how to install insulation in your basement, scroll down! My key concern is that the walls are uneven rubble stone that is not only uneven but also not square.. That is the walls push-out and I can't imagine being able to use adhesive to hold the insulation panels in place. Everybody, please read this article : According to the Building Science Corp, in colder climate zones you need a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall and it's required by code. Can I skip framing on the wall? Poloyiso or XPS? - First off, I made sure there was no moisture problems to begin with. I chose to use a product called MemBrain by CertainTeed. Hi Ed - To be honest.. Hi, in all the articles on this site, I see nothing that addresses "draft stopping." The cavities between the blocks could be filled with water, for eg. It is available in several thicknesses and R-values. And personally, if people can afford to pay a little more, I'd highly recommend using Roxul over fiberglass any day. We dont get many lizards in Chicago. If you're not concerned about losing too much headroom you could install rigid foam with OSB on top. Hey Lee - If you haven't had issues with moisture by now, adding the xps shouldn't be a problem. Ditto on the head spinning with conflicting information. Thus, I need to add an additional R8 to R10 of insulation into the wall cavity. I did not install the batting insulation however. Alternatively, install thicker layers of polyISO because it also classifies as a vapor barrier... seams all sealed and technically doesn't require drywall. It does provide a barrier, but not the impermeable barrier that is usually thought of when using plastic sheets. Frame the 2×4 wall before the spray foam is installed, with a gap of about 2 in. Hey Jame - You should be able to glue either side...just make sure your glue doesn't dissolve the foam. The graphite offers greater R-value than regular EPS at R-5 per nominal inch but in a thinner product. And it’s less expensive. I’m working with a local carpenter to finish my basement. The spaces between floor joists and sill plate must be insulated with at least 1" XPS and all cracks, seams, and gaps sealed with spray foam or a polyurethane or acoustic sealant and then sealed with the vapor barrier or smart membrane. And the reason I say yes is that it all comes down to R-value of the insulation. As for vapor barriers - I too researched this quite a bit and found sooooo many conflicting articles. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge gained! After re-grading and extending downspouts, we have not had any rain issues in basement. Wrapping It Up. So the basement walls that are under these protected areas have always been very dry. Maybe a few mice that look like lizards, but I digress. Hello, if you install rigid foam insulation to a concrete basement wall can you leave it unfinished like that or do you Please let me know a.s.a.p, because I am d.i.y my basement now and stucked here.... We want to do a mini fix-up of our unfinished basement to create an area for the kids to watch TV with their friends. but I'd install that (ComfortBatt) instead of fiberglass. I should add that there is some controversy about the video...specifically about nailing the tie rods further into the wall and potentially out the other side a bit. You can't just throw any ole insulation up. Is there anything wrong with doing that? They used batt insulation behind the drywall. I really prefer the Enerbond ( or Great stuff wal and floor foam adheasive), but don't want to use an adhesive that will eat in to my foam board. Several years ago I insulated the basement walls in our basement storage room. To help prevent this, enough insulation must be applied to create the required thermal break, and this is typically considered to be ~R10. Do i need to put drywall on top of this insulation or can i just put something decorative? Use something to hold the boards in place while the adhesive cures. Hey Beau - I think you're referencing what's called bridging for your top plate. I recommend going with the 2in thick for an R10 rating. Some fill the framing void with fiberglass insulation (no backing! After you studded your walls against the foam board, did you add fiberglass insulation? To learn more about this method please read this basement insulation article. If you can peel it away and there's concrete underneath, then I'd say that's the culprit. You actually want to facilitate the movement of the water vapor and XPS does this ... very slowly. - After running my plumbing and electrical, I filled my stud bays with Roxul. I plan to install laminate flooring. When applying the adhesive, apply it to the corners and along the edges of the rigid foam. Obviously a good chunk of change. You said that "If you live in a colder climate (like Michigan, Canada or the North Pole)" you will want to add 2" of rigid foam insulation between the concrete and the studs. Would love to be able to insulate this area and actually use it in colder winter months. After re-grading and extending downspouts, we have not had any rain issues in basement. Good luck! One, how to hold it against the uneven wall and dampness & water being trapped behind the rigid insulation. Spray a thin line of it in an S pattern on the back, press to the wall, place a 2x4 to hold it in place. There are also multiple videos on youtube that cover this topic but take what people say with a grain of salt. Thanks. The result of this can be moisture. Hi Jason. Oh, and if your local building code requires you to have a vapor barrier, then that has to also extend up and into the floor joists and sealed over the foam you put in... then cover with Roxul and/or drywall. Notice you went with horizontal; reason for that? If you remove the nails from your foundation walls be aware you may have just opened leak paths. Use your numbers to determine how much foam board insulation you need. PolyISO foam does not have to be covered, but double check with your local building code. I placed 2" xps board against the cinder block foundation wall all the way around (above grade side and below grade side.). Apply liberally - specifically in the corners and along edges of a piece. I'd use Roxul over fiberglass any day! Pretty low on time commitment too. Then, repeat the process. Closed-cell foam does a better job of stopping the diffusion of moisture from the damp concrete to the interior. These boards offer better basement insulation than fiberglass. I just came across your very interesting website. I've not been able to find any information on rigid foam around existing pipes. 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